Oval

An oval is a brilliant cut stretched into an ellipse. It keeps most of the round’s sparkle, but its longer outline covers more of the finger, so it looks larger than a round of the same carat weight and makes the hand look slimmer and longer.

The modern oval brilliant was developed in the mid twentieth century and has become one of the most requested shapes for engagement rings. It suits classic and contemporary designs equally well.

The length-to-width ratio decides the oval’s personality. Around 1.30 reads soft and full. Around 1.40 to 1.50 is the classic, balanced oval. Above 1.55 it becomes long and slender, closer in feel to a marquise. There is no correct answer, only the one that looks right on the hand that will wear it.

Most ovals show a darker band across the middle, shaped like a bow-tie, where light passes through rather than reflecting back. A faint bow-tie that shifts as the stone moves is normal and adds contrast. A heavy, dark one that stays put is a sign of weaker proportions.

It does not show on a grading report, which is why ovals are best judged by eye, or from good video, before you commit.

Ovals can show a touch more colour at the tips than a round. In platinum or white gold, G or H usually looks white; if you want an icy look in a larger stone, F or above is worth considering. For clarity, an eye-clean VS2 is generally enough, as the brilliant faceting helps conceal small inclusions.

A four-claw solitaire shows the outline cleanly; six claws add security and soften it. A hidden halo adds sparkle from the side without changing the clean view from above. Turned sideways in an east-west setting, an oval sits low and looks quietly modern. It also pairs beautifully with a pear or a coloured stone in a toi et moi.