Pear

A pear combines a rounded end with a single point, like a teardrop. It is cut as a brilliant, so it sparkles well, and its long outline makes it look large for its weight and slims the finger.

A good pear is symmetrical: draw a line from the point to the centre of the rounded end and both sides should mirror each other. The shoulders, where the curve meets the point, should be gently rounded rather than flat or bulging. These are judged by eye, so look at the stone itself or a clear video.

Like the oval, a pear can show a bow-tie across its middle. A faint one is normal; a heavy dark one is not.

The point is the most fragile part of the stone. It should always be held by a V-shaped claw, or a bezel, that covers the tip and protects it from knocks.

Traditionally the point faces towards the fingertip, which lengthens the finger most. Some people prefer it pointing towards the wrist, or set sideways in an east-west design. There is no rule.

Pears can show a hint of colour at the point. G to H looks white in platinum or white gold; choose higher if you want an icy stone. An eye-clean VS2 is usually enough.

A solitaire with a V-claw at the point is the classic choice. A halo follows the teardrop outline beautifully. Pears are also natural partners in toi et moi designs, beside an oval or a coloured stone, and as side stones curving towards a centre diamond.