Princess

The princess cut is a square diamond with pointed corners, faceted as a brilliant so it sparkles strongly. A modern cut, it became popular from the 1980s and remains one of the most requested square shapes.

It also uses more of the rough crystal than a round, so for the same weight and grade a princess usually costs less.

Sharp corners are the princess’s weak point. Each should be held by a V-shaped claw that covers it, so that a knock lands on metal rather than diamond. Avoid any setting that leaves the corners exposed.

Princess cuts can show a little colour in the corners. G to H looks white in a white metal setting. Their busy faceting hides small inclusions well, so an eye-clean VS2 is usually plenty, but check that nothing sits near a corner, where an inclusion could weaken the stone.

A four-claw solitaire with V-claws is the classic. Princess cuts look crisp beside channel-set side stones and modern straight-sided bands. A square halo makes the centre stone look larger again.