Asscher

The Asscher cut was created in 1902 by Joseph Asscher of Amsterdam. It is a square step cut with large cut corners, giving it an almost octagonal outline, and a high crown that draws the eye down through concentric squares.

Seen from above, those facets form a pattern often described as a windmill, or as looking into a series of receding mirrors. It defined the Art Deco era and still feels unmistakably of it.

Like the emerald cut, the Asscher’s open step facets reveal what is inside. VS1 or above is a sensible starting point for clarity, and the stone should be checked by eye. It also shows colour more readily than a brilliant, so F to G is a good target for a white look in platinum.

Asschers carry much of their weight in their depth and their corners are cut away, so they can look smaller from above than a round of the same weight. Compare measurements, not just carats, and consider a halo or tapered side stones if presence matters.

Four claws at the cut corners keep the square outline crisp. Tapered baguettes either side or a geometric halo lean into the Art Deco feel. Platinum, the metal of the period, is a natural partner.