Cushion

The cushion descends from the old mine cut, the hand-cut diamonds of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Its rounded corners and gently curved sides give it the look of a pillow, hence the name. Modern cushions keep that soft outline with far more precise faceting.

Not all cushions sparkle the same way. Some are cut with larger, bolder facets that throw broad flashes of light, closer to the antique look. Others, often called crushed ice, have many small facets that create a glittering, shattered-glass effect.

Neither is better, and both can be beautiful, but they look very different and the report will not tell you which you have. Always look at the stone, or a good video of it, before you decide.

A square cushion is soft and classic, and pairs naturally with a halo. An elongated cushion, with a ratio of about 1.15 or more, has the finger-lengthening effect of an oval with more vintage character. Elongated cushions have become one of the most sought-after shapes in recent years.

Cushions tend to hold colour a little more than rounds, especially in the corners. If you want a bright white look, choose a colour grade or so higher than you would for a round, or embrace the warmth and set it in yellow gold for a deliberately antique feel. For clarity, an eye-clean VS2 usually suffices in brilliant-style cushions.

Four claws placed at the corners frame a cushion simply; double claws give a distinctive, vintage outline. A halo emphasises the soft square shape. For an antique look, try a bezel, a hand-engraved gallery or a slim yellow gold band.