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CHOOSING THE METAL

Platinum vs White Gold

They look almost the same on the first day. Over twenty years they behave very differently. How to choose between the two white metals.

01

Side by side

Both are white, both are precious and both suit a white diamond beautifully. The differences are in what each one is made of, and so in how it ages.

Platinum 95018k white gold
Made of95% platinum75% gold, alloyed with white metals
ColourNatural grey-white, all the way throughBright white from a rhodium plating
UpkeepA polish when you want the shine backRe-plating from time to time to stay bright white
How it wearsMetal is displaced into a soft patinaA tiny amount of metal is lost over the years
WeightNoticeably heavierLighter
Sensitive skinVery rarely a problemDepends on the alloy; some contain nickel
Cost for the same designHigherLower
UK hallmark950750
02

Colour on day one, and day five thousand

New white gold is often the whiter of the two, because its rhodium plating is a brilliant, mirror-bright white. Platinum is a slightly softer, greyer white.

As the plating wears, white gold slowly shows the warmer tone of the gold beneath, first on the underside of the band. Re-plating restores it. Platinum has no plating to wear: its colour simply stays. If you never want to think about it, that is the strongest argument for platinum.

03

Holding the diamond

Claws do the most important job in an engagement ring, and they take the most wear. Platinum claws wear more slowly than gold ones and tend to bend rather than snap, which is why platinum is often chosen for the head of a ring even when the band is gold. Whichever you choose, have the claws checked from time to time.

04

Feel and weight

Platinum is far denser than gold, so a platinum ring feels substantial on the hand. Some people find that reassuring; others prefer the lightness of white gold. Try both on if you can.

05

Sensitive skin

Platinum 950 is very pure and very rarely causes a reaction. Some white gold alloys contain nickel, which a small number of people are sensitive to. If you know you react to nickel, say so before anything is made: platinum, or a nickel-free white gold, avoids the problem.

06

How to decide

Choose platinum if you want a white that never needs re-plating, the most secure hold on the stone over decades, and a ring with weight. Choose white gold if you prefer a lighter ring, love the brighter white of new rhodium, and would rather put more of the budget into the diamond. Our gold vs platinum guide compares every colour of gold as well.

Questions

Is platinum better than white gold?

Platinum keeps its colour without re-plating, wears more slowly at the claws and suits sensitive skin. White gold is lighter, brighter white when new and costs less. Neither is better for everyone.

Can you tell platinum from white gold?

Not easily by eye when both are new. Platinum is heavier and slightly greyer, and the hallmark inside the band tells you for certain: 950 for platinum, 750 for 18k white gold.

Does white gold need replating?

From time to time, to keep its bright white finish. How often depends on how hard the ring is worn.

Is white gold hypoallergenic?

Not always. Some white gold alloys contain nickel. Platinum 950 or a nickel-free white gold are the safest choices for sensitive skin.

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