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THE MARK OF THE METAL

UK Hallmarks Explained

The tiny marks inside a ring are a promise, independently checked. What a hallmark is, when the law requires one, and how to read every part of it.

01

What a hallmark is

A hallmark is a set of small marks struck or laser-engraved into a piece of precious metal, usually inside the band of a ring. It shows that the metal has been independently tested by an assay office and is at least as pure as it claims to be.

It is one of the oldest forms of consumer protection in the world. Standards for gold and silver in England date back to the year 1300, and the word itself comes from Goldsmiths’ Hall in London, where pieces were brought to be tested and marked.

The point is simple. You cannot tell 18k gold from 14k, or platinum from white gold, by looking. A hallmark means somebody independent has checked, so you do not have to take the seller’s word for it.

02

What the law requires

Under the Hallmarking Act 1973, it is an offence to describe an item as gold, silver, platinum or palladium when selling it in the UK unless it is hallmarked, or falls below the exemption weight for that metal.

MetalExempt from hallmarking below
Platinum0.5 grams
Gold1 gram
Palladium1 gram
Silver7.78 grams

Almost every engagement ring and wedding band weighs more than these thresholds, so in practice a gold or platinum ring sold in the UK should carry a hallmark.

03

The three compulsory marks

A full UK hallmark has three compulsory parts:

The sponsor’s mark
Initials inside a shield, identifying the maker or the business responsible for sending the piece for hallmarking. No two sponsors share the same mark.
The fineness mark
A number giving the purity of the metal in parts per thousand, set inside a shield whose outline shows which metal it is.
The assay office mark
A symbol showing which of the four UK assay offices tested and marked the piece.

Optional marks may sit alongside them: a traditional symbol for the metal, such as a crown for gold or an orb for platinum, a date letter for the year it was marked, and occasionally a special commemorative mark.

04

Reading the fineness number

The number is the one most people look for, because it tells you exactly what the ring is made of.

NumberMetalPurity
950Platinum95% platinum
91622 carat gold91.6% gold
75018 carat gold75% gold
58514 carat gold58.5% gold
3759 carat gold37.5% gold
925Sterling silver92.5% silver

White, yellow and rose 18k gold all carry 750. The colour comes from the other 25% of the alloy, which the hallmark does not describe. Our gold vs platinum guide explains the difference between them.

05

The four assay offices

There are four assay offices in the UK, each with its own mark:

Assay officeMark
LondonA leopard’s head
BirminghamAn anchor
SheffieldA rose
EdinburghA castle

All four test to the same legal standards. The mark tells you where the piece was tested, not where it was designed or made.

06

Finding the hallmark on your ring

Look inside the band, usually at the bottom of the shank. On a fine ring the marks are tiny and often laser-engraved, so you may need a magnifying glass or a jeweller’s loupe and good light to read them.

If a ring has been resized, the hallmark may have been moved or partly lost in the process. A good jeweller works around it, and if a hallmark is ever removed, the piece can be re-marked by an assay office.

Shops that sell precious metal jewellery must also display the official Dealer’s Notice, which explains what each mark means. If you are buying in person, it should be on the wall.

07

Rings made abroad

Items imported into the UK must be hallmarked here before they are sold, or carry a Common Control Mark applied under the International Hallmarking Convention, which the UK recognises. A stamp of 750 or 18K on its own, without the other marks, is a manufacturer’s claim rather than an independent hallmark.

08

Our rings

Hallmarking is one of the stages every Jabour ring passes through before it is finished, and the hallmark is recorded on the certificate that comes with your ring.

Questions

Does an engagement ring need to be hallmarked in the UK?

Yes, if it is sold as gold, platinum, palladium or silver and weighs more than the exemption weight: 1 gram for gold and palladium, 0.5 grams for platinum and 7.78 grams for silver. Almost every engagement ring is above these weights.

What does 750 mean on a ring?

750 means 18 carat gold: 750 parts per thousand, or 75%, pure gold. It is used for yellow, white and rose 18k gold alike.

What does 950 mean on a ring?

950 is the standard fineness for platinum jewellery: 95% pure platinum.

What does the leopard’s head mean on a hallmark?

The leopard’s head is the mark of the London Assay Office at Goldsmiths’ Hall. Birmingham uses an anchor, Sheffield a rose and Edinburgh a castle.

Is a ring without a hallmark fake?

Not necessarily. It may be below the exemption weight, very old, or made abroad. But a ring sold in the UK as gold or platinum above the exemption weight should be hallmarked, and a stamp such as 18K alone is not an independent hallmark.

Where is the hallmark on a ring?

Inside the band, usually at the bottom of the shank. The marks are small and often laser-engraved, so a magnifying glass or loupe helps.

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