Alternative Engagement Rings

No. The white diamond solitaire became the default during the twentieth century, but rings set with coloured stones are far older, and many of the most famous engagement rings in history are not diamonds at all. What matters is that the ring suits the person and survives the life it will lead.

An engagement ring is worn every day for decades, so durability matters more than for almost any other jewel. Hardness, measured on the Mohs scale, tells you how well a stone resists scratching. Toughness, how well it resists chipping, matters as much.

The great coloured stones each bring something a white diamond cannot:

Sapphire

Hard, tough and available in almost every colour, from royal blue to teal and pink. The most practical coloured choice.

Ruby

The classic red, and as durable as sapphire.

Emerald

An extraordinary green, best in a protective setting and worn with a little care.

Aquamarine

The clear blue of seawater, which its name means in Latin. Brazil is one of the world’s great sources. Our Itapuã ring sets an oval aquamarine in woven yellow gold.

Spinel

Bright, hard and found in reds, pinks, blues and greys. Once mistaken for ruby in royal crowns, now loved in its own right.

If you want the durability of diamond with a different look:

Fancy colour diamonds

Yellow, champagne, pink and blue diamonds. Natural ones are rare; lab-grown makes the colours more accessible.

Salt and pepper diamonds

Natural diamonds full of black and white inclusions, each one patterned differently. Usually cut in antique or rose cut styles.

Black diamonds

Opaque and dramatic, often treated to achieve an even black.

Antique and old mine cuts

Hand-cut diamonds with chunky facets and a softer glow.

Sometimes the alternative is the design rather than the stone. A toi et moi pairs two stones, often a diamond and a coloured gem. An east-west setting turns the stone sideways. A signet or a bezel-set stone gives a quieter, more personal ring. An heirloom stone, reset into a new design, carries a family story forward.

Choose a stone hard enough for daily wear, or protect a softer one with a bezel or a lower setting. Ask for a report that confirms the stone is natural or lab-grown and states any treatment. And care for it properly: warm water, neutral soap and a soft brush, never an ultrasonic cleaner.