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CHOOSING THE STONE

Sapphire vs Diamond

Colour or light? The two hardest gems in jewellery, compared honestly, so you can choose the one that fits the person.

01

Side by side

Diamond and sapphire are the two hardest gems used in jewellery, and both last a lifetime. The difference is in how they play with light and what they are chosen for.

DiamondSapphire
Hardness (Mohs)109
What it offersBrilliance and fireColour
GradingThe 4Cs, on a standard scaleNo single scale; reports focus on identity, origin and treatment
Colour rangeColourless, plus rare fancy coloursAlmost every colour except red
PriceSet largely by the 4CsVaries widely with colour, origin and treatment
Everyday wearExcellentExcellent
02

Light versus colour

A diamond bends light more strongly than any other natural gem, which is why it sparkles with such brightness and fire. A sapphire is chosen for something else: depth and richness of colour, which no diamond of comparable price can offer.

So the first question is simple. When you picture the ring, is it a flash of light, or a colour?

03

Durability

At 10 on the Mohs scale, diamond is the hardest natural material. Sapphire, at 9, is the next hardest of the classic gems and very tough. Both are excellent for everyday wear. Over many years, a diamond keeps its crisp facet edges and polish a little better.

04

White sapphire as a diamond alternative

White sapphire is colourless and durable, and some people choose it as a less costly alternative to diamond. It is a lovely stone, but it does not have diamond’s brilliance and fire, and side by side the difference is clear. If you want the look of diamond at a lower price, a lab-grown diamond is usually the closer match, because it is diamond.

05

Price and value

Diamond prices follow the 4Cs fairly predictably. Sapphire prices vary far more: a small sapphire of commercial quality can cost much less than a diamond of the same size, while a large, unheated sapphire of fine colour from a celebrated origin can cost as much as, or more than, a fine diamond.

For a sapphire, ask for a report from a respected laboratory confirming that it is natural and stating any treatment and, where relevant, origin.

06

Or both

You do not have to choose. A sapphire framed by a halo of diamonds, a diamond flanked by sapphires in a three stone design, or a sapphire and a diamond side by side in a toi et moi all bring light and colour together.

Questions

Is sapphire as durable as diamond?

Nearly. Sapphire is 9 on the Mohs scale and very tough; diamond is 10. Both are excellent for daily wear.

Is a sapphire cheaper than a diamond?

Often, for commercial qualities. But fine, unheated sapphires from celebrated origins can cost as much as or more than a diamond of similar size.

Does white sapphire look like diamond?

From a distance, perhaps. Up close, it lacks diamond’s brilliance and fire. A lab-grown diamond is the closer lower-cost alternative.

Can I combine sapphire and diamond in one ring?

Yes. A diamond halo around a sapphire, sapphire side stones beside a diamond, or a toi et moi with one of each are all classic ways to combine them.

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