Undertone, not skin tone
What matters is not how light or dark your skin is, but its undertone: the subtle warm, cool or neutral cast beneath the surface. Two people with the same complexion can have different undertones, and suit different metals.
CHOOSING THE METAL
A simple way to read your undertone, the metals that tend to flatter it, and why the rule is only ever a starting point.
What matters is not how light or dark your skin is, but its undertone: the subtle warm, cool or neutral cast beneath the surface. Two people with the same complexion can have different undertones, and suit different metals.
Try these in natural daylight:
As a guide:
| Undertone | Tends to suit |
|---|---|
| Warm | Yellow gold and rose gold |
| Cool | Platinum and white gold |
| Neutral | Almost anything, including mixed metals |
Rose gold is often described as the most universally flattering, because its pink warmth sits comfortably on most undertones.
Undertone is one consideration among several. The stone matters: a colourless diamond looks whitest in a white metal, while an emerald glows in yellow gold. Style matters: the watch you wear every day, the jewellery you already own, the look you love. And for an engagement ring, practicality matters too.
The best test is the simplest. Try the metals on, in daylight, and see which one looks like it belongs on the hand.
Yellow and rose gold usually flatter warm undertones best.
Platinum and white gold tend to flatter cool undertones.
Rose gold is often described as the most universally flattering. People with neutral undertones can wear almost any metal.
Yes. A yellow gold band with white claws, or a two-tone design, can suit any undertone and make a colourless diamond look its whitest.
STILL HAVE QUESTIONS?
Bring the question to a private appointment in central London or a video call. Consultations are complimentary.